Eastern Cape. #ShotLeft. - There was a taste of local when we stopped in at the Stormsriver Arts & Crafts centre for a look-see-shop.
Eastern Cape. #ShotLeft. - The Donkin Reserve is a public space gifted to the city by its founder, Sir Rufane Donkin. Equal in size to about two city blocks, its main feature is a stone pyramid monument with a touching inscription in memory of his late wife, Elizabeth, after whom the city was named. Also the lighthouse built in 1861, which I just had to climb for best views towards the harbour.
Today the area holds 67 pieces of public art to celebrate Nelson Mandela’s 67 years of public life and his contribution to the freedom of South Africa. The route starts at the Campanile built on the beach where the British Settlers landed in 1820. Standing 52m high it is one of the beacons of Route 67. The walk starts here and winds its way through the CBD all the way up to the Great Flag - the tallest flag pole in Africa, symbolizing our freedom.
The walk is symbolic of the struggle that Madiba and fellow comrades underwent during South Africa’s apartheid years and is a symbol of hope for the youth of today. Sending out a strong message - the struggles of the past were not in vain.
A life size laser cut figure of Mandela leads a line of voters in SOuth Africa’s first democratic elections.
The 470 square metre mosaic celebrates the multi-cultural heritage, history, fauna and flora.
The view from the top of the lighthouse.
From above, the view down the path way with its white crosses which represent the voting queue in 1994. On either side the 43 lights representing a journey along the voting line.
The lighthouse also holds the headquarters of Nelson Mandela Bay Tourism.
I’m touching briefly on the attractions, as everywhere you look there’s a piece worthy of time and appreciation. Don’t visit Port Elizabeth without spending a couple of hours taking in all this area has to offer.
Eastern Cape. #ShotLeft. - The pier
Eastern Cape. #ShotLeft. - Don’t ask. Somewhere near the Storms River Mouth.
Eastern Cape. #ShotLeft. - I’ve seen Segway’s around, mostly security guards zooming past on them in parking lots and shopping malls, but I had never been on one before.
When it was confirmed that one of the activities we would do on our Eastern Cape #Shotleft was a Segway Tour in the Tsitsikamma Forest, I had no idea what to expect, although I was a little nervous about balancing upright. Balance is not really my thing. Turns out that this is the MOST fun you can have on two wheels! Yes, mr. loyal bicycle, I’m afraid that its true.
After meeting the charming owners Andre and Michelle Kruger and taking lessons in a designated area near the office, Di and I zoomed after our guide Chris on the two hour Big Tree excursion. In no time at all he had the difficult job of reining us in … Whhhheeeeee! Absolute love.
The route we took meant crossing the N2 highway into the Ratel Forest through tall trees that left an eerie sense of adventure as they blurred the periphery. The short walk to the Big Tree, a 1100 year old Yellowwood, really brings out my respect for these giants that have seen the area change around them, yet ever tall reach for the sky.
The Segway is the world’s most advanced self balancing human transporter, and quite honesty, it was hard to relinquish mine after the fun I’d had. There are numerous places where you can try this, although the magnificence of the Tsitsikamma is where I would start.
Eastern Cape. #ShotLeft. - Tsitsikamma Village Inn in Storms River eco-village is where I spent the night. Perfectly set between the coastal and forest reserves, the 49 room hotel offers a spacious comfortable retreat that is perfect for all travellers wanting to spend time in the area, whether they are after the natural beauty or seeking out the variety of extreme sports on offer.
The main building, which traces its roots back to 1845, has a spacious dining room, incorporating the De Oude Martha Restaurant, the Hunters Pub, Cafe Bacchus and Guest Lounge.
My room was beautiful and large, opening up onto the main gardens which are impeccably kept. The property has a rich history and embraces various types of architectural styles. It seems to have found it’s happiness with current owners and truly offers services that far exceed the 3 star ranking.
Thank you for hosting us on our #ShotLeft.
On a recent trip to the Eastern Cape and while staying in the charming Storms River eco-village, I did a Canopy Tour with Tsitsikamma Canopy Tour, a fair trade company that inspires with their community work. Here is some footage that I managed to capture on my WOHZA GoPro inbetween having the most exhilaratingly fun time - thank you to my guide Chantelle for taking such good care of me.
Travel is in my blood.
As a small girl I clearly remember my Dad carrying my brothers and I to the car at around midnight, settling us in with blankets and pillows and once snug we would embark on the 15 hour road trip that began our annual holiday. Living in the Free State, these long drives meant destination Cape Town, where we would stay for a week or two.
The smell of coffee freshly poured from a flask and egg sandwiches lovingly made by my Mom, mixed with the warmth of the early morning sun on our skins, woke us to Karoo landscape that stretched as far as the eye could see.
This anticipation and discovery was the foundation of the traveller in me.
It didn’t involve large amounts of money or fancy hotels, it was about togetherness, the adventure of driving open roads with endless games of I spy as we broke ground. Lots of stops and detours to see new things and meet interesting people, something that gave us a sense of pride and love for our country.
'There is indeed nothing more fun that a Sho't Left' and the past few days in the Eastern Cape with travel buddy and fellow blogger Di Brown of The Roaming Giraffe, affirmed just this.
Flying in and out of George we picked up a hire car and embarked on a round trip that had us staying in the Tsitsikamma, Port Elizabeth, Cradock and Graaf Reinet areas, all arrangements flawlessly made by Jonker Fourie of ECTour. These are some of the things we managed to see and do, additional posts will follow as I’m bursting with stories to share, but this is the sum of it.
The approach to Wilderness with views across the long white beach, always mark arrival on the Garden Route for me. We stopped and took to the boardwalk that follows the curve of the Touw River Estuary, pausing for a while next to the tranquil waters to watch the birds and canoeists. From here activities are diverse, with hiking in the surrounds most popular. There is a variety of accommodation on offer with special mention of the SANParks’ Garden Route Park which we visited.
In Sedgefield a stop at Wurst Express, a cool mobile food trailer where German speaking Jan Schiebe offers street food to regulars and passersby, is a must stop! Open Monday to Friday, Jan is found at the local market on Saturdays. Seated at his table with an umbrella for shade we indulged in a currywurst he had prepared for Di and a special spelt based vegetarian version for me. His homemade chilli sauce adding the bite and his charm much enhancing the conversation as he passionately told us about life in his hometown.
When in Sedgfield keep your eyes open for the work done by Mosaic Job Creation Project - an inspiring local community project. There are the horses we all know to look out for whilst driving through town, and near the look out point to the river mouth, a large fish and a tortoise that reminds that this is a proudly Slow Town.
From here the drive along the N2 into the Eastern Cape and Tsitsikamma forested area, where the adventure series began. We stayed in Storms River at the 49 room beautifully renovated Tsitsikamma Village Lodge. My room was simply gorgeous.
The whole town has a strong eco-village feel to it and I’m sure you could stay here for days and never tire of things to do. For us though it was the Tsitsikamma Canopy Tours in the afternoon and Segway Tour to the big tree the next day.
The Tsitikamma indigenous forest is an enchanting place to be, with some of the Outeniqua Yellowood trees as old as 700 years. Here the Tsitsikamma Canopy Tours have carefully constructed 10 platforms that we zoomed between, mostly at a height of about 30m above the ground with distances as great as 90 meters. I loved it! Flying through the sky. All capably assisted by our guide Chantelle and her crew. The company is registered as Fair Trade Tourism and beyond their environmentally sound ethos have also just awarded 15% of their shares to the staff.
Happy faces on one of the platforms.
The Segway Tours offered a thrill of a different sort. Basically the only way to find out how much fun this is, is to go on one. Having had a lesson from our guide Chris, we ventured into the forest towards the big tree. From start to finish the grin on my face was so broad I could hardly say anything but weeeeeee … We even crossed the N2 before venturing off-road and between the tall trees, I never wanted it to end! Besides, walking is so last year!
That afternoon a meet up with geocache superstar and friend in travel Jonker Fourie at the pier at Hobie Beach in Port Elizabeth allowed us the opportunity to bask in the sun whilst learning more about a city that is too often overlooked. Not only the gateway to Addo Elephant Park and a collection of high end game reserves, Port Elizabeth has all you’d want from a coastal city, yet has managed to retain a small town feel. The beaches and swimming are excellent and the promenade along the coast show signs of continued development whilst being enjoyed by locals.
My highlight was a visit to Donkin Reserve where I learnt about the Route 67 art project, climbed the light house and took a moment to hold hands with Madiba. These moving words appear on the pyramid built by Sir Rufan Donkin in memory of his late wife Lady Elizabeth after whom the city is named - ‘In memory of one of the most perfect human beings who has given her name to the town below.’
That night had us at Kragga Kamma, a small reserve on the outskirts of Port Elizabeth, where giraffe, zebra, warthog, white rhino and buffalo are found. We settled into our cabin that evening as the sky turned orange, watching the game pass by. In the morning our seld-drive yielded excellent game viewing, particularly of the white rhino which have been dehorned for their safety. Sadly a necessary precaution these days.
As an ocean advocate and lover of all things marine themed, I couldn’t wait to visit SAMREC. A marine bird rehabilitation and education centre in the Cape Recife Nature Reserve with special emphasis on the African penguin. Our guide Keith, a volunteer at the centre, showed us around the facilities and we had the pleasure of meeting some of the penguins. They are equipped to deal with emergencies such as oil spills and often rehabilitate birds caught in nets or with injuries from boats and fishermen.
That said, the greatest concern for these little guys is the lack of breeding ground and fish in the ocean. Most have to swim 25+km per day just to find food, meaning that by the time they return to shore there is little left for their young. It was fascinating and I will be adding more detail on the work done here. They work purely on the funds taken at the door and donations. An organisation worthy of support.
This little guy is recovering from a bad cut to his back from a speedboat.
Taking to the open road between Nanaga and Cradock, where we stopped for coffee and a chat with my long time friends, the Sandra and Lisa Antrobus at Die Tuisehuise and Victoria Manor. There is no greater show of what heart and soul can do for a small Sho’t Left town than what they have done for Cradock. Now a 16 room hotel with 30 restored self-catering cottages, dining room and wellness centre, they deserve all the love they can get.
Victoria Hotel, built in 1840, is one of the oldest hotels in South Africa and is said to have hosted Olive Schreiner and Cecil John Rhodes. The cellar was reportedly used as a prison cell in the South African war.
Back on the road we stopped to breath in the great Karoo and capture one of my favourite South African road signs.
SanParks continue to meet all expectations with their collection of reserves beautifully kept and proudly managed. We arrived at Mountain Zebra National Park just as the afternoon was nearing its end. About 5 minutes in we were offered a gift from the rhino gods when a black rhino walked across the road right in front of us. Pausing slightly before running off … We also saw Mountain zebra, vervet monkeys, red hartebees and more on the short drive to our accommodation.
Walking in the bush heightens the senses. There’s always an element of risk in the wild, yet with a professional guide to lead the way its the smells, sounds and feel of the bush that holds the focus. With ranger Charl Lyell we headed up the hill after picking up the signal on cheetah Angela’s collar. Cheetah tracking is one of the many activities on offer at Mountain Zebra, one I highly recommend. Approaching from below, we found her relaxing in the shade under the tree. What a pleasure to spend time in her company.
Thanks for the above pics Di Brown.
It was hard to leave this park, actually it was hard to leave everywhere we visited on this trip, even though we knew new discoveries and adventures awaited us.
Staying at her parent’s Karoo Park guest house in one of the biggest most indulgent rooms I’ve seen, we indulged in more Eastern Cape hospitality before heading to Obesa Nursery, the largest succulent garden in the Southern hemisphere.
The only way to end an evening in Graaff-Reinet is with sundowners at the Valley of Desolation in the Camdeboo National Park, which is exactly what we did.
Dinner that night was under the stars with the weather warm and clear.
The last day of our Sho’t Left had arrived and we did a walking tour of Graaff-Reinet with our Karoo girl ,who brought the history of the town and buildings alive with her anecdotes and knowledge. I always say ‘walk a town’ and now I’m adding to that ‘with a guide’. We never looked at buildings, we looked at architecture, design, history and the stories that they held.
The Ou Kerk, the fourth one to built on this site, completed in 1886.
Outside a Made It handcrafted shop in Graaff-Reinet where yard bombing is the thing!
No visit to Graaff Reinet is complete without paying respect to the great anti-apartheid activist Robert Sobukwe who was born here and died on 27 Feb 1978 aged 53. My favourite quote by him - ‘The optimist thinks this is the best of all possible worlds. The pessimist fears it is true.’ It felt right to stand here and say thank you for the lessons he brought us.
From here we hit the road back to George airport, taking on a few detours nearby, before checking in for our trip home.
Suggestions and note - Our country is larger than we imagine. No matter how ell we plan, there will be things we wish we could do or add. Allow time in each area. Pack padkos and water for the long drives. Walking shoes and a sun hat. An open mind and the desire to Sho’t Left down any road that grabs your attention.
For me this trip exploring the Eastern Cape brought home the facts. As much as I love all travel, from the safety of the backseat as a child to the exotic international destinations I’ve encountered and seductive days falling for Africa, there is nothing as special as touring your own city and country. I’ve been doing it for as long as I can remember and know for a fact that I will never stop.
This is what a Sho’t Left can give you.
So do it - take a Sho’t Left - by train, bus, car or taxi. I can’t emphasise enough how worthy our country is of your domestic travel love injection.
For Sho’t Left travel deals look here.
Spoiler alert: There are many more posts to come!
My thanks to Debbie Damant, Bonolo Modisa, Lwazi Moletsane and the SA Tourism #ShotLeft team for making this possible. To Jonker Fourie, Chantelle Marais and Di Brown for sharing my love for local travel.
Port Elizabeth. - Let’s close the divide! Holding hands with Madiba and a young friend at the Donkin Reserve in Port Elizabeth. What a place of unity, art, expression and history. Such a special visit, thank you for taking me there Jonker Fourie.
Lion and Baboon. - I was sent this moving story and series of events and thought I would share it. Very moving and I just adore animals.
Photographer Evan Schiller and Lisa Holzwarth were on a game drive in the northern Botswana’s Selinda area when they came across a big troop of baboons charging through the bush.
The baboons were obviously frightened by something and they all scampered up trees, shouting, alarming, and making a big scene. It quickly became clear what the problem was: two large lionesses came out of the tall grass and rushed the baboons into the trees, soon joined by two more lionesses.
"Between the baboons shrieking and the lionesses communicating with deep guttural roars, it was a mad scene," Lisa says.
But then the real chaos began! One brave baboon descended the dead tree and tried to make a run for it, but got snapped up in the jaws of a lioness.
The lioness grabbed a female baboon on the run. But there was something else there. As the baboon lay dying in the jaws of the lioness, a little baby (less than a month old) slowly disengaged from its mother’s body. Instinct took over and the baby tried to make a go for a tree, but did not have the strength to climb. At this point the lioness noticed the “little guy” and went over to investigate.
Instead of snapping the baby up in a deadly movement, she started to play with the baboon. The lioness was inquisitive and gentle at the same time.
After a while she picked up the baboon softly in her mouth and walked away, then settled down with the baby between her paws. In a strange behavioural twist, the baboon started to try and suckle the lioness.
The lioness got distracted-this time by two male lions who arrived on the scene. Their advances, however, were met with aggression by the lioness. Was she defending the baby baboon? Or just uninterested in their mating advances?
Here’s where it gets interesting: Waiting in a nearby tree is a big male baboon, who is obviously intent on saving the baby. The male lions were causing such a ruckus that it presented a short window of opportunity for the brave hero to descend the tree, grab the baby and head back to safety.
The father baboon had to make a move. Holding the baby, in all sorts of contorted positions, he tried numerous times to climb down the tree. He tested the lionesses’ interest with each descent. The heroic male baboon, having just saved the baby from the lions, cradled him in his arms.
"I was touched by how gently the father baboon held this little baby who was in tough shape after its ordeal."
Life is fragile and no matter how much we fight to control its outcome, all we can do is live in the moment.”