Berlin, the greatest cultural extravaganza that one could imagine. — David Bowie, 1970s
These days the divide is no longer obvious. The Berlin Wall is down and freedom reigns in the German capital city, where tourists find themselves asking where the Wall is and where it was while stepping obliviously through history from East to West and back again.
Since the fall of the Wall, Berlin has established a reputation as one of the most creative and cultural centres in the world. A city of many faces, one known equally as a hub for hedonists and as a draw for historians, it is also increasingly a destination for families seeking out leisure time in the green zones of Tiergarten and Mauerpark. Throughout, the city’s bohemian style matches upmarket neighbourhoods, high-end hotels, and Michelin-star dining spots.
The city, whose unique history defined the 20th century like no other, is today a thriving metropolis despite being left destitute by the First World War. Berlin led the way in avant-garde art, music, and literature throughout the Golden Twenties before Hitler’s rise to power in 1933 made the city the capital of the Third Reich. Divided for occupation by the Allies after World War II, Berlin became the last frontier of the Cold War, with the iconic Brandenburg Gate the background of countless demonstrations for freedom over the years.
Stranded behind the Iron Curtain for nearly 40 years, West Berlin developed its own, unique identity and became a magnet for nonconformists in search of an alternative lifestyle. Subcultures, squatters, and graffiti became part of the city’s distinct character, and with the fall of the Wall, this scene didn’t disappear, it simply moved east. A walking tour allows you to explore the gritty, grungy, underground of the city, including Kreuzberg, where Berlin’s revolutionary heart and immigrant roots can be found.
Everywhere in the city, life is embodied in its raw and real form, and this freedom to live is contagious.
Why the Berlin Wall?
The fortified and guarded wall that separated East and West Berlin from 1961 to 1989 was built by the government of then East Germany to prevent people from fleeing East Berlin. For 28 years, it was the symbol of the Iron Curtain that separated the democratic West and the Communist countries of Eastern Europe throughout the Cold War. The fall of the Wall on November 9, 1989, marked the end of the Cold War and Stalinism and the triumph of the people of the former East.
Berlin Today
There is construction everywhere, as is Berlin’s way post World War II which saw 80% of all buildings destroyed by bombs, it constantly reinvents itself. The Mitte borough, in particular, has been completely revamped since 1989 bringing the birth of a new era, once within East Berlin and home to prestigious government and company buildings, museums and theatres and the German parliament.
During my visit to Berlin, I opted to explore mostly on foot. There’s something about walking a city that strips away the barriers and leaves you with your senses heightened to the sounds and smells. Where whiffs of beer and coffee intermingle with exhaust fumes and the chatter of friends passing by meets with music as it drifts from open windows. Everywhere life in its raw and real form embodies you speaking truth to the notion that one must walk a place, to truly know it.
Even though my independent meandering was varied and plentiful, it was anchored by the lessons and information imparted on me by my guides on the numerous free walking tours that I joined. With just 4 days on the ground, I opted for these tours for a balance of history, East and West and a look at the artistic grunge that has earned Berlin a reputation for being one of the coolest cities on earth.
Now what belongs together will grow together. ― Willy Brandt, Berlin, 1989
1. Free Walking Tour Introduction to Berlin for Background.
The perfect half-day introduction to Berlin, a city whose unique history defined the 20th century like no other. A thriving metropolis left destitute by the First World War, Berlin led the way in avant-garde art, music and literature throughout the Golden Twenties before Hitler’s rise to power in 1933 made the city the capital of the Third Reich. Divided from occupation by the Allies after World War II, Berlin became the last frontier of the Cold War, symbolised by the Berlin Wall cutting through the centre of the city.
This 2.5-hour tour took me from past, and present to future with incredible stories from our guide bringing the sites to life. We covered – fleetingly, but you can always return for more – the Brandenburg Gate, site of Hitler’s bunker, Holocaust Memorial, Checkpoint Charlie, Gendarmenmarkt, The Berlin Wall, TV Tower, Pariser Platz and the Luftwaffe HQ. What I liked is that we started at one point and ended at another, allowing the opportunity to continue with the exploration.
2. Historic and Third Reich Tour
This tour will send shivers up your spine, but it is essential to the history of Berlin and offers insight into the overwhelming influence the SS and Gestapo had, with their headquarters at one time the most feared address in Nazi Germany. Today the remains of these two buildings house exhibits of the Nazi rise to power, including a look at Goebbels’s Propaganda, Himmler’s secret state police, Goering’s elite Air Force and Hitler’s master plan.
The 3.5-hour tour covered the Reichstag, Politician Memorial, Soviet Memorial, Homosexual Memorial, Jewish Memorial, Goebbels and the Propaganda HQ, Topography of Terrors and the New Synagogue. It will leave you with a heavy heart and I suggest taking the tour in the morning and allowing yourself a bright and happy excursion – and beer, in the afternoon.
3. Street Art and Alternate Tours
For anybody who loves street art, Berlin as the graffiti capital of Europe is the place to visit. Stranded behind the Iron Curtain for nearly 40 years, West Berlin developed its own, unique identity and became a magnet for non-conformists in search of an alternative lifestyle. Sub-cultures, squatters and graffiti became part of the city’s distinct style and with the fall of the Wall this scene didn’t disappear, it simply moved east. On this tour, we explored the gritty, grungy, underground of the city, including a visit to Kreuzberg, where Berlin’s revolutionary heart and immigrant roots can be found.
Also, a 3.5-hour tour, allows for an open mind and to be with a crowd that may be swigging beer as you go, something that seems the norm on the streets of Berlin. We visited the Bethanien Gallery for contemporary art, and learnt about the difference between graffiti and street art and the modern-day ‘bombing’ that Berlin takes place in. If you’d like a taste of the nightlife, stay on for the Alternate Pub Crawl, which takes you away from the obvious to the smaller underground, burlesque and absinthe bars that you may not discover on your own.
Thierry Noir is a French artist who is claimed to be the first street artist to paint the Berlin Wall. A virtual antique when it was designed in the 1950s, the Trabant was East Germany’s answer to the ‘people’s car’.
4. Cycling and Walking Potsdam
In every sense picturesque, I highly recommend a trip to nearby Potsdam, either for an overnight or by 40-minute train ride for a day trip. A Unesco World Heritage, this former royal capital and garrison town with its many palaces, gardens and historic quarters can easily be explored on foot, but given the scope of the area and attractions, it’s much easier to rent a bicycle and pick up a map which will allow you to reach the whole of Potsdam, with or without a guide. Potsdam may be best known for the palace Sanssouci, but there is so much more here, including huge English-style parks, villas built by famous architects, a perfect Russian Orthodox Church and cobbled streets with excellent shopping and dining.
In total, I covered a distance of just on 25km during a full chilly day, with a lingering stop at the La Maison du Chocolat in the Dutch quarter for a cup of 100% pure melted chocolate (read 600 calories) and some apple strudel and cream for sustenance. Or visit the Meierei brewery on the river, a good spot for lunch. In all a perfectly happy day out.
Over and above these tours listed you’ll find the option of a Green Tour and Taste of Berlin tour, or you may opt to do a self-guided tour of the main sites yourself. Berlin is an easy city to explore and is well-signposted. Linger at Check Point Charlie and get your photo taken with the guards there, it’s obligatory really.
Additional Highlights
Check Point Charlie Museum or Mauermuseum provides an excellent look at how people tried to escape East Germany and brings that period of history to life, ensuring that it is not forgotten. Another place not to be missed is Berlin’s Museum Island with its impressive ensemble of five museums on an island in River Spree.
Berlin is a surprisingly warm and welcoming city, one that seems to bear no judgment but simply embraces all as they are. My one guide told me that of the over 3.5 million inhabitants in the greater Berlin area, hardly any had a real job, they simply ‘all lived on art, culture and the appreciation of good living’.
Useful Information when planning your trip to Berlin
- There is construction everywhere, as is Berlin’s way post World War II which saw 80% of all buildings destroyed by bombs, it constantly reinvents itself. The Mitte borough, in particular, has been completely revamped since 1989 bringing the birth of a new era, once within East Berlin and home to prestigious government and company buildings, museums and theatres and the German parliament.
- During my visit to Berlin, I opted to explore on foot. There’s something about walking a city that strips away the barriers and leaves you with your senses heightened to the sounds and smells. Where whiffs of beer and coffee intermingle with exhaust fumes and the chatter of friends passing by meets with music as it drifts from an open window. Everywhere life in its raw and real form embodies you speaking to the notion that one must walk a place, to truly know it.
- Even though my independent meandering was varied and plentiful, it was anchored by the lessons and information imparted to me by my guides on the numerous free walking tours that I joined. With just 4 days on the ground, I opted for these tours for a balance of history, East and West and a look at the artistic grunge that has earned Berlin a reputation for being one of the coolest cities on earth.
How do free walking tours work?
There’s no such thing as free but the guides offering the tours and bringing their well-researched stories and anecdotes to the experience are not formally paid. They are licensed at their own expense and rely solely on gratuities for their income. For a half-day tour, I’d recommend a tip of Euro 10 and for a full-day tour Euro 20. Still exceedingly good value.
* This post forms part of my 100x Magical Places series which offers an introduction to my favourite destinations.
** Most pics sourced, some my own.
